Visas, Carnet de Passage, Entry Permits

What’s wonderful about traveling South America is that most people do not need visas for any of the South American countries. If you are from Canada, the EU, South Africa, and Australia, luck is on your side: all you need to do is show up at the border, and they’ll give you an entry permit for 90 to 180 days. In most South American countries, you can do this multiple times: if, for example, your 90-day Peru entry permit is running out, all you need to do is cross a border to Bolivia, have lunch, and come back the same day – they’ll let you right back in.

Border crossing

What’s the difference between a visa and an entry permit? A visa is issued by an embassy before you travel, and most of the time, you have to pay for it. An entry permit is issued right at the border; you don’t need to obtain it beforehand, and you never have to pay for it.

If you’re from the US, most countries will let you in just the same except for Bolivia, Venezuela, and Brazil: these three countries require Americans to obtain a tourist visa beforehand (you also need a visa for Argentina if you want to stay there for more than 90 days).

However, things may change depending on many factors – elections, civil unrest, diplomatic relations -  so just to be on the safe side, double-check visa requirements before you go. Your best bet is your country’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs website: they will have the most up-to-date information about each country’s visa requirements for your nationality.

Want to hear some awesome news, though? Carnet de passage is not required in any of the South American country regardless of your nationality!

Honduras customs

Getting It Right from the Start

Borders in South America can be chaotic and entertaining even when your Spanish is good enough and your paperwork is in order – so just make sure you’ve got everything ready.

  • Check your ID before you leave. When is the expiry date? Next month? Time to get a new passport!
  • Make sure your motorcycle documents are up to date: your license, registration, and insurance should be valid for at least the length of your journey+at least one extra month for emergencies (imagine you’re gunning for the Colombian border to catch a boat to Panama in time, but the main road is blocked by a landslide and you need to detour).
  • Make copies of your passport, license, motorcycle registration and insurance: very often, border officials request to keep copies of your documents, but the copy shop is too far, closed for lunch, or closed for good and you end up paying way too much for a taxi to the next town.
  • Speaking of copies: laminated copies of your passport and bike docs are a great way to avoid losing your real documents! Most police, military and sometimes even border officers in South America are quite happy to see laminated copies instead of the real thing, so make sure you have them ready for inspection. It’s also handy when the police and/or military checkpoint officials look sketchy: they can hold your real passport for ransom, but when you hand them a laminated copy, you can just ride off.
  • Entering and exiting each new country in South America, in addition to your personal and motorcycle documents, you’ll need a Temporary Vehicle Import Permit (permiso de importación temporal de vehículos). This is an extremely important piece of paper: it shows that you entered the country on your motorcycle, and that you’re leaving with it – in other words, it’s an insurance that you won’t sell your fancy bike in the country you visit. Entering a new country, always make sure that you are issued this document at the customs office (aduana) and that all the information about your motorcycle (make and model, VIN number, plate number, etc) is correct. When you’re leaving a country, you need to hand the TVIP in at the customs. If you don’t, you may face bike impound and steep fines.
  • Aduana vs Migraciones. If your Spanish is no better than “hola” and “cerveza”, make a note of the two most important border offices: Aduana, which means customs, and Migraciones – Immigration. Normally, you first go to the Migraciones to have your passport stamped, then proceed to Aduana to have your motorcycle paperwork sorted. Why is it important to go to Migraciones first? Depending on your nationality, the country you’re entering, and the mood of the officer you have the pleasure of dealing with that particular day, you may get 90 or 180 days of entry; you’ll need your motorcycle paperwork to reflect this, not the other way around.

Police officer

Bribes, Fixers, and Attitude

You’ve probably heard about corruption in most South American countries. Sadly, corruption is a big problem there – but that doesn’t mean you need to add to it!

  • Don’t pay bribes. Ever. If you are asked for a bribe directly, just smile and politely but firmly refuse. If they still demand it, simply ask for their commanding officer or to be taken to a police station/immigrations office: that usually ends the discussion. If you are asked for a bribe indirectly, smile, pretend you don’t understand, and move on. Paying bribes only feeds the corrupt system and paves the way for bribe extortion from the next motorcycling gringo, so just don’t do it!
  • Don’t employ fixers. Although it’s more common to Central American countries, you may encounter volunteer ‘fixers’ at South American borders, too. Fixers are local people who offer to help you with your border crossing paperwork for a fee; sometimes, they are genuine and can actually help, but very often, they only pretend to do things on your behalf – or disappear after receiving their fee altogether. You’re better off befriending a border official to help you out, or asking to team up with other travelers who speak the language and understand the process better than you do.
  • Don’t show frustration. Yes, borders in South America may often seem inefficient, unorganized, chaotic – but keep in mind that the people who work there are doing the best they can with what they have and with the training they have, which very often isn’t much at all! Be compassionate, patient, and friendly: a smile and a few words in the local language are always best policy!

Police officer.

Intrigued about border crossings in Central America? Here’s a helpful guide to get you started!

Need up-to date advice, insurance information, tips on buying a bike locally? Check out Horizons Unlimited South America forum.

Questions? Let us know in the comments below!

Photos by rtwPaul.